In practically every reasonable-sized town in the country, the vibrant souk lies at the heart of the old quarter, or medina, breathing colour and life into the entire town. Full of ethnic charm, there is no better way of whiling away an afternoon, even if you're not planning to buy anything (though you may be hard pressed to leave completely empty-handed). Of course, if you are planning to get your wallet out, haggling is the name of the game and you don't need to worry about offering half the asking price, as the initial prices are generally well over the odds to leave plenty of room for a bit of bargaining.

Make sure you keep it all good humoured - remember this is all part of the fun and driving a hard bargain is usually easier if the merchant sees you as a fellow player in the haggling game, rather than a hard-nosed rival. You will find that you can buy practically anything in souks, from harem outfits and ethnic jewellery to birdcages and fossils, books and wooden boxes to CD's.

Another good buy is ethnic silver jewellery, most of it is mass-produced, but if you look hard enough, you can find handcrafted and sometimes antique Berber necklaces, pendants and bracelets. The silver is sold by weight, but there is a tiny bit of room for bargaining. Common motifs are the hand of Fatima, fish, eyes and triangles to ward off the evil eye.

Even more unusual is the finely-wrought silver jewellery, including filigree, in Houmt Souk on the island of Djerba. The Jewish shops on the island are generally indicated with a star of David or Hebrew writing outside and as well as selling jewellery, sometimes have unique tribal pieces or mezuzahs (scrolls that contain scriptures).

Once you've been in Tunisia for a few days, you will be well aware that there is no shortage of carpets to be had - in fact, you may have difficulty not buying one while you're here, as carpet shops seem to abound wherever you go. Don't let this put you off, though, as they are generally of a high quality and pretty good value. They come in wool, camel hair or silk and all manner of colours and patterns. Many shop owners will invite you in to sip tea while they dazzle you with the wonderful world of weaving and dyes, which of course is a good ruse, as many people then feel more inclined to buy something.

Whether or not you buy a carpet, you could quite easily deck out your entire house with Tunisian household goods and ornaments. Many shops sell kitchen utensils, salad bowls, vases, lamps and picture frames made from olive wood, which is hard and durable requiring very little maintenance - just an occasional polish and rub with oil.

Copper and brass items are also a good buy - you'll find engraved or enamelled vases, coffee pots and trays, either in a roughly-hewn, country farmhouse sort of style or in more sophisticated, intricate designs. Alternatively, local souks are a great place to buy hand-made pottery and ceramic tiles in every imaginable colour and design. Pottery styles vary from region to region, with the distinctive blue and white variety in Nabeul, and yellow/green glazes in Djerba. Guellela potters (on the island of Djerba) use natural clay, and produce functional household pieces.

Leatherwork is very popular in Tunisia, with anything from bookmarks and book jackets to purses and leather jackets on sale. Traditionally-designed hassocks make great souvenirs, and they come in natural leather or camel. Most towns and small villages have weekly markets where you can buy everything from food and clothes to souvenirs and small animals (if you feel so inclined). They provide an ideal opportunity to meet the locals, admire the endless varieties in regional clothes, and bring home a few inexpensive trinkets or treasures.